WHAT WE USE ?
ALMOND OIL
DESCRIPTION
We all know almonds are a healthy food option and it turns out the same is true for our skin as this is one ingredient packed with a lot of nutrition
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Lots of replenishing ingredients like monosaturated oleic acid (omega 9-fatty acid), linoleic acid (an omega-6 essential fatty acid), myristic acid and vitamin E
USES
This non-fragrant oil has some impressive qualities, it’s a natural emollient and sclerosant (used in the treatment of varicose veins), it’s been used to treat dry skin conditions like psorises and eczema as well as improve complexion and skin tone. It’s also effective in reducing progression and itching of striae (i.e. stretch marks from pregnancy)
ALOE VERA
DESCRIPTION
You can find this little succulent in tropical climates all over the world. It’s a versatile plant that’s used in many consumer products from beverages to cosmetics to lotions
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A host of biologically active substances, including vitamins B1, B2, B6, C, choline, niacin amide, glycoprotein, enzymes, phenolic compounds, a variety of amino acids, phytochemicals and salicylic acids
USES
Besides the benefits of ingesting it (which is a whole other post), it’s most well-known for its anti-inflammation, healing and epidermal development properties for sunburn and wounds. Thanks to its bioactive make-up it’s also been used as an antifungal, antiviral, anti-parasitic and regenerative treatment. Like almond oil it’s also effective in reducing progression and itching of striae (i.e. stretch marks from pregnancy). From skin diseases to infections to insect bites this is an all-purpose super ingredient to look out for in skin and body care products. Just bear in mind though that moderation is key for this one as it can be pretty potent (depending on the formulation and % of aloe in the product)
APPLE CIDER VINEGAR
DESCRIPTION
This ingredient is basically fermented liquid distilled from apple cider. It’s cheap and has a variety of uses. You can consume it or apply it to your skin, either way there are handy benefits
WHAT IT CONTAINS
One of its main (and active) constituents is acetic acid
USES
As for its topical advantages, it’s really effective as a cleanser and for treating acne thanks to its natural exfoliating properties that assist in balancing sebum and removing hyperkeratosis (i.e. where the outer skin cells are replaced with keratin) and also provides anti-fungal properties. Bear in mind that because it is an acid it can be sensitizing
ARGON OIL
DESCRIPTION
From the fruit of the Moroccan Argon tree, this non-fragrant oil is used in both food (think of the oil used for dipping bread) and cosmetics. It’s packed with nutrients. Overall a real powerhouse ingredient for maintaining strong, supple and elastic skin
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A very high % of lipids and fatty acids (linoleic, oleic acid and palmitic acid), vitamins A and E (tocopherol) and other minor components (polyphenols, tocopherols, sterols, squalene, and triterpene alcohols)
USES
Its natural emollient nature assists with hydration, its also be shown to repair the skins barrier function and also balance and regulate the production of sebum. As with all plant oils, a diluted solution works best
AVOCADO OIL
DESCRIPTION
This is a super fatty (but nourishing) ingredient. It’s one of the few plant oils that’s not derived from seeds but rather pressed from the pulp that surrounds the avocado pip
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A heap of essential nutrients and phytochemicals, such as vitamins A, B1, B2, B12, D, E, lipids, polyhydroxylated fatty alcohols and beta carotene
USES
A natural non-fragrant skin replenishing and emollient plant oil that also shown to be an effective ingredient in the long term treatment for psoriasis, an anti-inflammatory for skins diseases like vulvar lichen sclerosus and also as a protective agent against UV-induced skin damage
CEDARWOOD OIL
DESCRIPTION
This essential oil is derived from the foliage, wood, roots and stumps of a variety of conifers (i.e. species of plants, from trees to shrubs). It’s claimed that, for therapeutic purposes, it’s best to look out for the cedar oil that’s been steam distilled from the evergreen coniferous found near the Atlantic and Morocco. It’s best known as a natural fragrance but is also used in medicine, art and cosmetics
WHAT IT CONTAINS
its principal constituents are terpenic hydrocarbons, sesquitepenes and cadinene
USES
Besides its use as a woody like fragrance, it’s shown to have limited benefits as a treatment for acne, eczema and skin eruptions. Do use carefully though as cedarwood oil, like many other natural fragrances, has been shown to aggravate the skin
CHAMOMILE
DESCRIPTION
There are two common varieties of chamomile, the German chamomile and the Roman Chamomile. In Greek, chamomile means “earth apple” and this ingredient is a skin care chameleon
WHAT IT CONTAINS
The major bio-active ingredients are various flavonoids (apigenin, luteolin, patuletin, and quercetin), bisabolol oxides A and B and chamazulene, farnesene, lactones, glycosides, hydroxycoumarins, flavonoids, coumarins, terpenoids, and mucilage
USES
It’s most famous for its effective anti-inflammatory properties with its ability to penetrate into the deeper layers of the skin. It’s also effective for treating moderate cases of eczema (in one study chamomile was 60% more active than 0.25% hydrocortisone cream – used for swelling and inflammation), skin irritations, sunburns, rashes and sores. It’s shown to increase and strengthen wound healing too. It’s also been used in the treatment of hemorrhoids
CHARCOAL
DESCRIPTION
Charcoal or activated charcoal (when oxygen is added to charcoal) is just a simple form of carbon that’s typically used in the medical community for treating poison and nausea
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Carbon
USES
Charcoal has really low volume pores which significantly increase its surface area (a gram of charcoal can cover 3000m2) and in turn it’s absorption properties. In fact, it can adsorb between 100 and 200 times its weight in impurities. Thanks to these unique qualities, anecdotal evidence shows that it’s effective as a topical treatment in drawing excess oil, dirt, bacteria, poisons and chemicals from the skin. Its also widely used by doctors in eliminating pungent odors from chronic wounds
COCOA
DESCRIPTION
The use of cocoa in food and medicine goes back some 3000 years to the times of the Mayans and Aztecs. Apart from consuming the most popular ingredient in the world, cocoa (as an extract or butter) also has some great benefits when applied to the skin
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A rich source of bio-active phytocompounds, phenolic antioxidants (flavonoids, but the most notable and active ones are catechin, epicatechin, and procyanidins), essential minerals, vitamin E, omega 3 fatty acids and theobromine
USES
This super-effective natural skin emollient protects the skin by neutralizing oxidative stress. Its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties enhance the skin’s photoprotection against the sun’s UV rays which is crucial to skin health. Its also shown to inhibit the production of collagenase and elastase (i.e. enzymes that degrade skin cells) which slows the skin’s aging process and reduces the risk of wrinkles. It’s an effective nourishing moisturizer. If you’re prone to acne, be cautious when applying cocoa butter as it can clog up your pores
COCONUT
DESCRIPTION
This is one of the most versatile ingredients (for skin and food) around. Originally from the palm family, coconut trees are now found in tropical areas the world over
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Depending on the part of the coconut, heaps of beneficial and bio-active compounds, including triglycerides (medium chain fatty acids – mostly lauric acid, alpha tocopheral myristoleic acid and palmitoleic acid), phenols, tannins, flavonoids, steroids, alkaloids and triterpenes. It also contains vitamin E and it’s one of the few oils that’s hypoallergenic
USES
Treatment of chronic skin diseases like eczema, dermatitis, psoriasis and cuts and wounds thanks to its anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antiviral, antifungal properties. It’s also perfect for dry skin as it’s emollient nature and high concentration of lipids improves barrier function which provides (and maintains) the skin’s hydration and moisture. Be aware though that some information on the interwebs claims that coconut oil is good for acne and sun protection but there has been no scientific evidence to back this up
GLYCERIN / GLYCEROL
DESCRIPTION
Glycerin, a non-toxic, odorless and colorless liquid, may sound like a synthetic but this ingredient is in fact naturally occurring in all lipids (i.e. fats), including skin. It’s usually derived from animals and plants but it can also be synthetically manufactured – look out for propylene glycol and PEG silicone. While these are considered humectants, and may make your skin feel smooth and supple they contain no nutrients, can cause skin irritation, rashes and increase risk of dermatitis
WHAT IT CONTAINS
it’s a simple polyol compound, which is an alcohol made of various chemical (e.g. oxygen, hydrogen) bonds
USES
Because of its humectant nature, this ingredient is a body care staple as it attracts (mostly from the deeper layers, like the dermis), binds and holds moisture to the epidermis or upper layer of the skin. By doing so, it prevents dryness and maintains the skin’s suppleness . However, the lower layers of skin if not replenished properly will be sapped of their own moisture. That’s why glycerin is usually combined with oils or other occlusive emollients to provide a layer of protection on the skin to reduce moisture loss
GREEN TEA
DESCRIPTION
Originating from China, green tea has been around since the early twelfth century and quickly spread to many other countries in Asia. Now, it’s a favorite beverage the world over
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Heaps of antioxidants known as flavonoid phytochemicals or polyphenols (mainly epigallocatechin-3-gallate)
USES
Its strong antioxidant, anti-carcinogenic and anti-inflammatory properties are likely to slow down the process of ageing, repair or improve the appearance of sun-damaged skin, reduce topical oxidative stress and have also been known to inhibit matrix metalloproteinases (i.e. enzymes that contribute to skin degradation)
HEMP SEED OIL
DESCRIPTION
Not to be confused with hash oil which comes from the cannabis flower, hemp seed oil is obtained by pressing hemp seeds. It has a nutty aroma and is dark to light green in color
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Vitamins A, B, B1, C and E, iron, proteins, sodium, phosphorus, magnesium, copper, calcium, iodine, beta carotene, phlorotannins and essential amino acids
USES
Thanks to its trace elements and minerals it helps to maintain the skin’s natural functions. Algae also has antioxidant and anti-photoaging properties which have shown to effectively inhibit skin oxidation stress and matrix metalloproteinases (i.e. enzymes that contribute to skin degradation). It’s a natural humectant preserving the upper layer of the skin’s moisture.
SEA SALT (Sodium Chloride)
DESCRIPTION
Himalayan salt is found in the Punjab region of Pakistan whereas sea salt is, obviously, found in the sea!
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Trace minerals and nutrients, including iron, magnesium, calcium, zinc, potassium and selenium
USES
As a topical scrub to exfoliate and remove dead skin cells. Bear in mind this can be sensitizing if left on the skin for too long
JOJOBA OIL
DESCRIPTION
Jojoba has a variety of names like goat nut, deer nut, quinine nut and coffee berry. The non-fragrant oil is produced from the seed of the jojoba shrub which is native to the west coast of the USA and northwestern Mexico
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A variety of different fatty acids (mostly eicosenoic, erucic and oleic acid) and alcohols
USES
Its chemical structure closely resembles human sebum (i.e. the oil or lubrication that our skin produces) so it’s easily absorbed into the skin and is effective as a moisturizing and balancing agent for the skin’s natural oils, without clogging pores. It also has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antibacterial properties. It’s not only a great moisturizer for dry and chapped skin but it’s also great for healing burns, sores, scars, dermatitis, acne, psoriasis and sunburn. Definitely keep an eye out for this one if you want to rejuvenate and enhance your skins natural suppleness
LIQUORICE ROOT EXTRACT
DESCRIPTION
The benefits of Liquorice root have been well known since the days of ancient China…
WHAT IT CONTAINS
it’s main constituents are the bio-active compounds known as glycyrrhizin / glycyrrhizic acid and licochalcone. It also contains the phytoestorogen known as glabridin
USES
it increases the production and migration of skin cells. It’s also been shown to have antiviral, antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory and skin soothing effects and is used in the treatment for several skin disorders like rosacea, eczema, psoriasis and dermatitis. It has a natural skin lightening agent for the treatment of hyperpigmentation, uneven skin tone, melasma and other pigmentation disorders of the skin. If that’s not enough it’s also been shown to have anti-inflammatory and anti-microbial properties, making it useful in the treatment of acne
Vitamin C
DESCRIPTION
It’s probably the most famous (and popular) vitamin for consumption but, as it turns out, it’s also really good for your skin too. There’s a variety of vitamin C derivatives and it’s naturally found in a heap of ingredients already mentioned in this list (rosehip, sea buckthorn and aloe vera) but L-ascorbic acid is the most well studied
WHAT IT CONTAINS
This essential nutrient is a weak acid that’s structurally related to glucose
USES
It’s a strong antioxidant that’s shown to be effective as an anti-aging supplement when formulated properly (i.e. a pH level of 3.5 or less is required for the skin to absorb it). It assists in the repair of sun-damaged skin, stimulates collagen production and has also been shown to inhibit the production of melanin and skin cancer. When L-ascorbic is applied to the skin regularly it’s also been shown to even out skin tone and improve hydration. Note that like all anti-oxidants, L-ascorbic acid can break down fairly easily when exposed to air and light, so best to make sure the product you buy is contained in an air tight bottle, tube or pump, clear jars are susceptible to light so avoid these
LAVENDER OIL
DESCRIPTION
There are about 47 species of the lavender plant and they’re found in many parts of the world, including the Canary Islands, Europe and north and east Africa. Distilled from the flower spikes of the Lavender plant, this essential oil is colorless and insoluble in water
WHAT IT CONTAINS
The exact composition of Lavender oil can differ from species to species but its primary constituents are a complex of phytochemicals, including linalool and linalyl acetate
USES
Besides its delightful fragrance, under in-vitro studies this ingredient has shown to promote collagen synthesis and differentiation in the skin’s fibroblasts (i.e. the most common connective tissue in our skin). It’s also shown to be an effective therapeutic agent in repairing skin injuries and wounds. It’s been used to sooth sunburn and insect bites and relieve eczema and psoriasis. Studies have also shown that it may also have anti-inflammatory properties and can reduce irritation and pain. A word of caution though, as lavender is a fragrance it can naturally aggravate the skin
OLIVE OIL
DESCRIPTION
Olive oil is essentially the liquid fat obtained from olives. According to archaeological evidence it’s been cultivated between 6000-4500 BC in Palestine and (not surprisingly) it’s been used as a skincare remedy since the time of the Egyptians and ancient Greeks
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Essential fatty acid content together with the emollient squalene (i.e. one of the most common fats produced by human skin cells), phenolic compounds, and specifically polyphenols
USES
Very effective as a moisturizer yet super sensitive (appropriate in the right formulations with newborns). In virto tests have shown the bio-active derivatives of olive oil support the production of adult fibroblasts which not only aid in the repair of the skin’s connective tissue but also in the appearance of aged skin. It’s also been used to treat minor skin problems like acne and is also effective in healing wounds and burns. There is a very low potential for this ingredient to be sensitizing or harmful, however, it’s usually combined with other beneficial ingredients
ROSE HIP OIL
DESCRIPTION
This exotic ingredient is native to Africa, Europe and West Asia
WHAT IT CONTAINS
Its phytochemical composition, includes ascorbic acid, phenolic compounds, a high concentration of essential fatty acids (omega 3 and 6), bio-flavonoid molecules and it also contains a heap of vitamins from A to E, with lots of C in between
USES
Thanks to its anti-oxidant, anti-inflammatory and anti-viral properties this ingredient is widely used for treating and strengthening dry, irritated and weathered skin, burns, scars and reducing the signs of ageing. Note that this ingredient is different to Rose Oil which is distilled from the Damask rose, which is a more volatile oil and has been known to aggravate skin
ROSEMARY EXTRACT
DESCRIPTION
This woody herb is another one of those ingredients that’s best known for its fragrance. However, there’s a lot more to this one than just the scent…
WHAT IT CONTAINS
The extract contains a number of bio-active phytochemicals but most importantly rosmarinic and caffeic acid
USES
It’s been used as a photo-therapeutic agent for healing wounds. It’s been shown to inhibit the harmful effects of UV skin induced damage and prevent DNA damage in certain cells. It also has antimicrobial and antibacterial properties so can be used as a natural preservative to prevent other ingredients in cosmetic and skincare products from oxidizing and also in the treatment of infections caused by bacteria. Note that while Rosemary oil has many of the same properties because of its high concentration of its fragrance compounds it’s been known to aggravate the skin
SHEA BUTTER
DESCRIPTION
Shea butter comes from the nut of the African shea tree. Since the days of Cleopatra’s Egypt, this ingredient has been used as a cosmetic and traded as a precious commodity
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A heap of beneficial components like fatty acids (mainly oleic, stearic and linoleic acid) and antioxidants (quercetin, epicatechin gallate, gallocatechin, epigallocatechin, allantoin)
USES
It has valuable antioxidant, anti-inflammatory and emollient properties. It’s used to treat all types of skin disorders from rashes to sunburn, chapping, ulcers, blemishes, eczema, and dermatitis. It’s effective for moisturizing dry skin and protecting against the environment. Some of its bio-active compounds have also shown to inhibit growth of certain types of radical and cancer cells
TEA TREE OIL
DESCRIPTION
Tea tree oil, also known as melaleuca oil, was first extracted from the narrow-leaved paperbark or narrow-leaved tea-tree, which is native to north eastern Australia. This camphor-like smelling essential oil has been used as a skin care remedy by the Aborigines for hundreds of years
WHAT IT CONTAINS
A lot of different compounds but its main constituents are terpinen-4-ol, terpinene, and α-pinene
USES
Tea tree oil has excellent anti-bacterial, antimicrobial and anti-fungal properties and is the reason this ingredient has been used to treat acne, lice, fungal infection, scabies, athletes foot, cuts, burns, toothache and insect bites. Note that, as with all fragrant plant oils, tea tree oil can be sensitizing (especially if it is an old product), so do use it in the appropriate volumes and store away from light and air to avoid oxidation
TURMERIC
DESCRIPTION
Native to Southeast Asia, the Turmeric plant is a herbaceous species that comes from the ginger family. While it’s most well known as a yellowy / orange spice in Asian cuisine it’s also used in traditional medicines, ceremonies, clothing, as a dye and as an indicator for acidity
WHAT IT CONTAINS
The main constituents are the bright yellowy chemical compounds produced by the turmeric plant called curcuminoids
USES
Not only is turmeric a potent antioxidant it’s been shown to exhibit anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antioxidant and anti-neoplastic (i.e. inhibits tumor growth in melanoma) properties. It’s also been used to treat a variety of skin problems like acne, wounds, burns, eczema and psoriasis and treat sun damage and skin photoaging (i.e. loss of the skin’s youthful appearance)
Onion Oil
Onion pure essential oil has a distinct onion aroma but also is known for its anti-bacterial, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, and hypnotic assets. Onion essential oil has a sulfurous type odor and a strong, unpleasant, odor.